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In May, I had the opportunity to visit Abaco Lodge for a long-anticipated site visit. I had been looking forward to this trip for months, eager to explore the expansive Marls of Abaco, catch a few bonefish, and possibly encounter a resident tarpon or a big permit feeding on a ray. Beyond the fishery itself, I was equally excited to experience the food, service, and accommodations at the newly rebuilt Abaco Lodge, which was completely reconstructed after Hurricane Dorian leveled it in 2019.
If you're considering a fly fishing trip to the Bahamas in search of world-class bonefishing, comfortable lodging, and excellent hospitality, Abaco Lodge deserves serious consideration. As always, my goal with this report is to offer a clear and honest perspective, cutting through the sometimes overly polished travel marketing, so you can make an informed decision about your next (or first) bonefish adventure.
Travel To The Lodge
One of the best things about Abaco Lodge is how easy it is to reach for most U.S.-based travelers. While many Bahamian destinations require a connection through Nassau, Abaco Lodge is accessible via direct flights from Miami on American Airlines. These daily non-stop flights are not only more convenient but also far more reliable than the smaller Bahamian carriers that connect Nassau to Great Abaco and Marsh Harbour Airport. If your travel plans allow you to take advantage of this direct route, it is highly recommended.
Upon arrival at Marsh Harbour Airport (MHH), you will proceed through immigration, collect your luggage, and clear customs. This process is typically quick and hassle-free, thanks to the airport’s small size and efficiency. Outside the terminal, a lodge driver will greet you and handle your short, ten-minute transfer to Abaco Lodge.
During my recent visit, I found the entire arrival and transfer process to be smooth and stress-free. Upon reaching the lodge, the staff greeted me with a cold beverage, took care of my bags, and the lodge manager provided a helpful orientation. He reviewed how the lodge operates, shared the fishing and weather outlook for the week, and took my dinner and lunch preferences. This thoughtful and thorough welcome really sets the tone, making it clear the staff is prepared and genuinely excited to help you make the most of your week on the water.
With the welcome briefing complete, I rigged my rods and settled into a comfortable room, feeling relaxed and excited to kick off the fishing program the next morning.
The Fishing
What sets Abaco Lodge apart from many saltwater destinations is its exclusive location, with easy access to a vast backcountry flats system and virtually no competition from other lodges or outfitters. The Marls is a 300-square-mile maze of shallow flats, mangrove islands, and tidal ponds that is absolutely teeming with life. The sheer size of this fishery means you won’t fish the same flat twice, unless you want to. The inner zones closest to the lodge offer immediate access to bonefish, making them perfect for a quick morning warm-up or an end-of-day session.
As you head farther west toward the outer flats and oceanside zones, average bonefish size tends to increase, and you’re more likely to encounter bonus species like barracuda, tarpon, and permit. On the northwestern edge of the Marls, there’s even a white-sand zone where bigger tarpon can sometimes be found. The scale of this fishery is staggering, and it would take years to explore every corner of it.
During our week, we experienced the full range of weather conditions, from bright sun and dead calm to driving rain and gusty wind. Somewhere between those extremes was a sweet spot that proved ideal for flats fishing. Rapid weather changes are something you should always be prepared for on a saltwater trip. Pack a rain jacket every day, and remember that one reason we travel to these destinations for a full week is to give ourselves a good shot at hitting quality conditions. That strategy paid off on this trip.
For the first half of our week, my boat partner and I focused primarily on bonefish. Just as advertised, the Marls holds an impressive number of them. I had expected to see some larger schools, but most of our encounters were with groups of 10 to 20 fish, along with the occasional single or double that was usually a bit larger. These smaller schools are actually a lot of fun. They still offer some competition for your fly, but it doesn’t feel like the guaranteed hook-up you get when casting into a mud. It’s the kind of fishing that keeps advanced anglers sharp while still offering an approachable experience for newer fly fishers. Sight fishing to moving schools in shallow water is always a blast.
It’s worth noting that bonefishing in the Marls is almost exclusively done from the skiff. Although the water is shallow, the bottom is soft and muddy, which makes wading difficult and often counterproductive, as it can cloud the water. If you're a dedicated wade angler, this may not be the destination for you. But if you enjoy the convenience of fishing from a boat, Abaco is ideal.
By mid-week, we had caught plenty of 2- to 3-pound bonefish and decided to shift our focus to the western flats in search of bigger bones, tarpon, and permit. To make a long story short, we saw all three, but I managed to botch each opportunity in one creative way or another. That said, this fishery definitely holds 5-pound-plus bonefish, trophy permit (often singles or doubles tailing behind rays), and resident tarpon pushing 50 pounds. A grand slam is possible here, but nothing comes easy. This is not one of those destinations where you might accidentally land a slam, like you sometimes hear about in Belize. Here, it takes focus and finesse. While Abaco is a top-tier bonefish destination in its own right, it also offers a more advanced layer for anglers looking to hunt permit and tarpon with a serious mindset.
One bonus worth mentioning is the presence of large barracuda, especially on the western edge of the Marls. These fish are a total riot on fly or spin gear. Most guides keep a spinning rod rigged for barracuda on the skiff, and we landed a few during our trip. Battling one of these aggressive flats predators is always a highlight. Pro tip: there is no such thing as stripping too fast for a ’cuda. Just move your fly as fast as you possibly can, and chances are you will get crushed.
All in all, we had excellent bonefishing throughout the week, despite a few rainstorms that delayed our start on some mornings. The fish were plentiful but challenging enough to make every eat feel earned, and having shots at giant permit and solid tarpon was the icing on the cake.
The Guides
The guides at Abaco Lodge are truly outstanding. Like many Bahamian guides, they are relaxed and laid-back, which is a quality I really value in a flats guide. When shots present themselves and adrenaline kicks in, their calm demeanor helps keep you grounded and focused. That kind of energy goes a long way in helping you stay composed when quick decisions and accurate casts matter most.
We fished with head guide Paul Pinder, Trevor Miller, and Joe Bodie. All three brought an impressive level of knowledge about the Marls, fish behavior, and flats tactics. Each had a slightly different approach to reading water and working through a flat, and all were equally effective. Trevor, in particular, has a reputation for being highly tuned into the permit game in the Marls, and he absolutely delivered on that. During our time with him, he found multiple rays with permit riding them - a thrilling sight every time.
Whether you're a seasoned flats angler or brand new to the salt, the guides at Abaco will help you set realistic goals for your week and give you the tools and support to achieve them. I can’t say enough good things about this team.
The Lodge & Accommodations
Abaco Lodge takes accommodations seriously. This is not a fish camp, but a well-appointed, comfortable fishing lodge with all the amenities of home and then some. From plush bedding and 24/7 electricity to on-demand hot water and a reverse-osmosis water filtration system, all the essentials are thoughtfully covered.
The main lodge building is warm and welcoming from the moment you arrive. A spacious covered patio with comfortable couches offers a great spot for relaxing and socializing after a day on the water. Inside, guests can enjoy a fully stocked self-serve bar featuring beer, wine, spirits, mixers, juices, sodas, and seltzer water to keep you refreshed throughout your stay. The lounge area includes a large flat-screen TV and cozy seating, perfect for catching a game in the evening. (The staff even streamed NHL playoff hockey for us during our visit.) The long dining table overlooking the water creates the ideal setting for sharing a good meal and trading stories about the day’s action on the flats.
The property also features a swimming pool with beautiful views of the water, a cornhole set on the lawn, a fire pit with Adirondack chairs, and a casting area next to the guest rooms for brushing up on your technique. You are also welcome to fish from the dock in the early mornings or evenings, where snapper, jacks, needlefish, and the occasional barracuda are often found cruising by. While the lodge is a fantastic place to relax between fishing sessions, it’s worth noting that there are no nearby beaches, snorkeling access, or sea kayaking options, and guests do not typically leave the property to explore Marsh Harbour. Everything takes place either on the skiff or at the lodge, so this may not be the best choice for non-anglers looking for off-site excursions or other recreational activities.
The food at Abaco Lodge is another highlight of the experience. Every meal during our stay was exceptional. Each afternoon when you return from fishing, the lodge managers will take your dinner order, offering a choice between two carefully prepared entrees and two desserts. Breakfasts are made to order and include everything from eggs and pancakes to grits, or something lighter like fruit, granola, and yogurt. There is always plenty of hot coffee, tea, and juice to start the day.
Lunch menus are filled out the night before, and your selected meal will be packed and waiting on your skiff each morning. Options include sandwiches, wraps, or salads, with protein choices such as fish, deli meats, or vegetarian selections. You will also choose your sides, including items like chips, cookies, fruit, and your preferred beverages. The food program is consistent, flexible, and thoughtfully executed, and it really adds to the overall quality of the stay.
Equipment
Bonefish Outfit:
Permit Outfit:
Tarpon Outfit:
Conclusion
Abaco Lodge offers the kind of well-rounded experience that most travelers are looking for. The fishing is solid, the guides are not only incredibly knowledgeable but also genuinely fun to be around, and the lodge itself delivers a level of comfort and hospitality that exceeds expectations. The food was a standout every single day, which adds even more to the overall experience.
This trip combined great bonefishing with the kind of lodge atmosphere that makes you feel completely taken care of. The Marls fishery is vast and full of life, and whether you're chasing your first bonefish or hunting for permit and tarpon, there's plenty to keep you engaged. It is not a hardcore wade-fishing destination, but it is perfect for anglers who enjoy skiff fishing, want a little luxury, and appreciate thoughtful service at the end of a long day on the water.
Abaco Lodge is a great fit for couples, families, or small groups of friends who want easy access from the U.S., a top-tier food and lodging program, and a chance to explore one of the most impressive backcountry flats systems in the Bahamas. I’m already looking forward to the next time I get back there.
If you’d like to learn more about Abaco Lodge, give us a call at 888-413-5211 or drop us a line at [email protected].
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