Fly Tying

How to Tie the Green Weenie: A Simple but Deadly Inchworm Pattern

Apr 03, 2026 · 5 min read
Sabin PiatekBy Sabin Piatek
Sabin Piatek
Sabin Piatek

Sabin Piatek is a fly fishing and tying expert that is always out on the water. He fishes everything from small creek dry flies to 12" Beast flies ...

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How to Tie the Green Weenie: A Simple but Deadly Inchworm Pattern

At Trident Fly Fishing, we've seen countless effective patterns come and go, but few are as consistently productive as the humble Green Weenie. This simple inchworm imitation has earned its reputation as a "searching" pattern that excels when you're probing unfamiliar water or when fish seem reluctant to take more traditional offerings.

Don't let the Green Weenie's simplicity fool you – this pattern has fooled countless trout and salmon across the country. The bright chartreuse color mimics the inchworms that frequently drop from streamside vegetation, making it an irresistible meal for opportunistic fish. What makes this fly truly special is its versatility: it works equally well in fast pocket water, slow pools, and everywhere in between. Best of all, with just two primary materials and a straightforward tying process, even beginning fly tyers can master this pattern in minutes.

Materials List

Material SKU Price
Hanak Competition 400BL Jig Classic Hooks
8 / Silver
SKU602573248027 $8.95
Shiny metallic hot-pink slotted bead heads for fly tying, three polished metal beads with cup-shaped slots Hareline Slotted Tungsten Beads
5/32in. / Anodized Chartreuse
SKU762820238864 $6.99
Three spools of glossy fly tying thread in neon green, bright orange and deep burgundy on white background Veevus 6/0 Fly Tying Thread
Fl. Green 132
SKU762820153402 $3.99
Three vertical bundles of fuzzy chenille yarn in bright orange, brown, and yellow on white background for fly tying Hareline Ultra Chenille
Standard / Fl. Chartreuse #127
SKU762820021701 $2.99
Full Video Transcript
Hey everyone, it's Ryan again with Trident Fly Fishing. Today I'm tying the very simple, but very deadly green weenie fly. This is a inchworm fly that is a great fly to use when you're probing new water. So I'm gonna be tying this fly today on a size six jig hook. This is a hook that has no barb on it, and it's from Hannock, and I'm gonna be using six-aught Vivas thread, in chartreuse. I'm gonna tie in right behind this bead. I've added a four-millimeter bead, like a brass black bead, right at the point of the bend here in the jig hook. I'm just gonna tie my thread in right behind that eye, kinda lock it in. And now I'm gonna take the only other material in this fly, which is Ultra Chenille from Hairline. This is the fluorescent chartreuse, and I'm gonna take off a shank of about four inches or so. Cut that off. I'm gonna see if I can push that in or close the opening in the bead. Do a couple of loose wraps to position it right on top of the hook shank, and I'm really gonna kinda crank that down. And I'm using my left hand, my pointer finger and thumb to keep that Chenille right on the top of the hook shank. I don't want it to slide around. I'm tying my thread wraps back towards the bend of the hook. I'm gonna stop right before the bend of the hook, really make sure that material is locked in. And I'm gonna create the tail here just by adding a little bit of a loop, like so. The loop is gonna go back about a half inch. I'm gonna use my left hand, my pointer finger and thumb to pinch that loop in place. With my right hand, I'm gonna bring that thread up and over. Couple of loose wraps. And as I'm tying this in, again, I'm maintaining contact with that tail so it doesn't wrap around. I wanna make sure that's really locked in place. Creates that nice little bit of profile. That looks good. I'm gonna pull the material back and tie a little bit in front just to really make sure it's locked down. Few more wraps on top. And now I can pull this back and advance my thread all the way back to the bead and let that hang out. Now you notice there's a little bit of gap between the tail loop and the Chenille. And I'm gonna try to cover that up as best I can with a wrap that goes beneath the hook and around. And as I do this, as I'm adding tension to the wraps, I'm also pulling back and keeping that tail material locked. I don't want this material to spin around the hook. And you're gonna be touching wraps as I go forward. Really make sure that material is locked down. And I'm gonna wrap all the way to the back of that bead. Great. Now I'm gonna use my left hand to bring the thread up and over, right behind the eye. Sorry, right behind the bead. Like so. Couple wraps in front. Really capture that material. Couple back over the top again. Really lock that in place. Then I'm gonna pull and trim the material as close to the body of the fly as possible. It's okay if a little bit of that thread is showing. It's the same color, no big deal. I'm gonna whip finish there, right behind the bead. I would add a little bit of head cement right there just to finish up this knot. And that is a simple but really deadly fly for trout and salmon called the green weenie.
Sabin Piatek
Written by

Sabin Piatek

Sabin Piatek is a fly fishing and tying expert that is always out on the water. He fishes everything from small creek dry flies to 12" Beast flies off a boat. He has been tying flies for almost a decade and has been tying commericaly for the last 5 years. Sabin always wants to help people improve their fishing and tying knowledge.

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