How to Tie a Surf Candy Saltwater Streamer Fly
Learn how to tie a Surf Candy Fly including step-by-step instructions, a video tutorial, pictures, and much more. Improve your fly tying skills here.
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This is a great pattern for picky fish in the salt. The Surf Candy is also a popular pattern in the northeast for Albies and Stripers in the marsh. This particular version is built with an Epoxy head that allows it to swim straight and true in the water. Whether you're targeting Stripers, Albies, or other predatory baitfish, this fly catches the attention of fish from a long way off. Plus, it's easy to tie! Tune in as Jared provides step-by-step instructions for a Bob Popovics classic.
Materials:
We've put together a kit that contains all the materials you need to tie this exact fly pattern.
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- Ahrex NS172 Nordic Salt Gammarus Hook - #6
- Veevus Mono Thread
- Hedron Flashabou - Pearl & Grey
- Loon UV Clear Fly Finish - Thick
- Fish-Skull Living Eyes - 3mm, Ice
Step One:
Start your Mono Thread and build a small thread base. This thread base will help build the body of the fly and allows the UV Fly Finish to bind to the thread instead of to the hook shank.
Step Two:
Choose a chunk of roughly 20 fibers of Pearl Flashabou and tie it in on the underside of the hook. Cut the fibers flush so you get a clean tie-in point and tie them in just behind the hook eye. Wrap back to the bend of the hook and then forward. Trim the butts toward the hook eye and cover them up with thread.
Step Three:
Choose another chunk of Grey Flashabou about the same size and tie it in on top of the hook shank. Again, cut the butts so they're flush and tie it in just behind the hook eye. Wrap your thread back to the bend of the hook then forward to the eye to create a little body.
Step Four:
Pull both strands of Flashabou forward and tie them down just behind the hook eye. Keep the Pearl Flash on the underside of the hook and the Grey Flash on top of the hook shank. Wrap back to bind down the fibers and to create a small body. Return your thread to just behind the eye of the hook.
Step Five:
Pull the Flashabou back again being sure to keep the darker color on top and the lighter color on the bottom. Advance your thread through the Flashabou to just behind the hook eye and trim any errant fibers.
Step Six:
Use the UV Clear Fly Finish to add your first coat of epoxy. Start by spreading epoxy under the body of the fly to bind the Flashabou down. The first coat should be light and sparing. Hit the fly with a UV light to solidify your first epoxy layer. At this point, you should be able to let go of the Flashabou and your fly should hold its shape.
Step Seven:
Continue to add layers of UV Clear Fly Finish and spread it evenly to create the body of the fly. Add the Fish-Skull Living Eyes and position them in place. Continue to add coats of epoxy over the eyes after you whip finish to get the thread out of the way.
Step Eight:
Spread the epoxy with a tool or a bodkin. Continue to shape the body of the fly until you're happy with its appearance.
Step Nine:
Trim the Flashabou to create the tail of the fly. Trimming at an angle adds a small taper to the fly that will help it look more lifelike in the water. You can also leave the tail long and trim it to size on the water once you see what kind of baitfish are present.
Step Ten:
After trimming the tail, you're done! That's the Surf Candy, a great pattern here in the Northeast for picky stripers that are keyed in on small schooling bait. This is also a great pattern for Albies, Bass, and more.
Questions?
Give us a call here at the shop at (888) 413-5211 or email us anytime at [email protected].
Fun ansd simple to tie anyway.
Thanks
Jim Putney
I was wandering if a size or even 2 size bigger eyes would make it even deadlier ? IMHO and experience small fish in the ocean often has non commensurate size eyes. Not that anything is wrong with this one and I’ll used it and tie it for sure
https://www.fnflyfishing.co.uk/products/new-fnf-jelly-10?variant=41708353802’
Twists before the top and bottom body layers are pulled back so it hides the chenille leaving the sides exposed.
Used for ‘blobs’ they would I suspect give a great impression of gill breathers once in the resin coating.
Maybe worth a try.