Fly Tying

How To Tie The Dyret

Aug 14, 2024 · 5 min read
Simon BrumfieldBy Simon Brumfield
Simon Brumfield
Simon Brumfield

Simon Brumfield is a fly fishing expert with years of experience across the fly fishing industry. An avid fly tier and gear enthusiast, Simon loves...

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How To Tie The Dyret

Follow Karl as he ties The Dyret. This is a killer dry fly that works as a great caddis imitation, as well as a general attractor!

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Follow along with Karl as he ties the Dyret, a unique dry fly pattern originating from Norway. "Dyret," meaning "animal" or "beast" in Norwegian, is a suggestive Caddis pattern known for its low-floating properties, making it irresistible to trout. This fly is crafted with high-quality materials such as the TMC 100 hook and Hareline Deer Hair, ensuring a lifelike presentation on the water. Ideal for anglers who appreciate traditional and effective designs, the Dyret is perfect for fishing in a variety of conditions. If you found this video helpful, make sure to leave a comment and subscribe to our YouTube page for more fly tying and gear review videos!

We've put together a kit that contains all the materials you need to tie this exact fly pattern.

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Materials:

Hook: Tiemco 100 (Size 14)

Thread: UNI 6/0 (Dark Brown)

Tail: Hareline Premo Deer Hair Strips (Natural)

Body: Hareline Superfine Dry Fly Dubbing (Dark Tan)

Hackle: Whiting 100 Pack Saddle Hackle (Size 14, Grizzly)

Video Transcript

Hello, I'm Karl at Trident Fly Fishing and today we're going to tie the Dyret. This pattern originated in Norway and Dyret translates to animal or beast in Norwegian. The fly floats low in the water and it is suggestive of a caddis. It can be tied in sizes 12 through 16.

The hook we're going to use today is a TMC 100 size 14. That's their standard dry fly hook. Our thread today is going to be Uni-Thread 6/0 in dark brown. We'll start our thread about an eye length behind the hook eye, wrap back to the bend of the hook to form a base for our materials. When we reach about where the barb is, bring our thread back up in front.

The first material we're going to tie in is just going to be some natural deer hair. Clip up a very small clump here - you probably want to end up with about an eighth of a pencil width, but we'll start with a little more than that because we usually lose some as we clean it out. Get it in our stacker and even up these butts. Still too much. That's about right.

We're going to tie this in just behind the eye. Take two wraps and then one wrap underneath all of that material and pull it tight. That'll keep that material up on top of the hook shank. Now we're going to wrap back to the bend of the hook with kind of moderate tension. You don't want to really crush the hair - that's what's going to give us our buoyancy. When we reach the barb of the hook, we'll wrap back up forward to the start. We're going to jump our thread in front of that, build up a little dam to help stand that hair up. And just like on a caddisfly, we're going to cut that off and form a head like that.

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Next we're going to tie in our hackle, and there are two ways you can do this. You can tie the hackle in at the tail of the fly and wrap it forward, or you can tie it in at the head of the fly, which is maybe a little bit more difficult, but it's going to allow us to take our thread back up and wrap through the hackle to reinforce it. So if a fish gets its teeth into that hackle and breaks it, our whole fly won't come apart. We'll move this and hang it out of the way.

The body of the fly is some Superfine Dry Fly Dubbing in dark tan. We'll form up a thin noodle and wrap this back to the start of the tail. I've got one broken piece here I want to get rid of. When we reach our tail, now we're going to palmer this hackle rearward. We'll take one full wrap up next to the head of the fly and make open spiral turns back to the tail. When we reach the tail, we're going to take our thread, make a couple of turns to capture that, and then wiggle our thread back up through all of that hackle to reinforce it. If a fish gets its tooth into that, he won't break it and our fly won't come all apart.

Sneak in here with our scissors and we'll jump our thread up to the eye of the hook. Try not to capture any materials - looks like I caught one, but we'll clean that up. I'll do a four or five turn whip finish here, seat our knot, and cut our thread.

This fly is designed to float low in the water, so we're going to cut the hackle off on the bottom of the fly. This is an optional step, but this is how the original was tied. Now a little head cement - this is Hard as Hull by Hareline. There we go. Our fly is finished.

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Simon Brumfield
Written by

Simon Brumfield

Simon Brumfield is a fly fishing expert with years of experience across the fly fishing industry. An avid fly tier and gear enthusiast, Simon loves helping anglers of all levels find the right setup and get the most out of their time on the water.

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