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I’ve just returned from a hosted week at Turneffe Flats Lodge, located on the beautifully remote Turneffe Atoll in Belize. This is one of the most popular destinations we book, thanks to its stunning natural beauty, vibrant fishery, and a world-class team of staff and guides who make an isolated island feel like home. Needless to say, I was excited to fish, but I was even more eager to spend a week with my group and help ensure everyone got the most out of their experience.

Overall, the trip was a great success. Everyone caught fish and gained a deeper understanding of the intricacies of flats fishing. Below, I’ll recap the week with details about the transfers, the lodge itself, and the robust fishery of Turneffe Atoll.

Travel To The Lodge

Getting to Turneffe Flats is very straightforward for American travelers. The trip begins with a flight to Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport in Belize City (BZE). Many major U.S. hubs offer direct flights, including Atlanta, Houston, Dallas, and even San Francisco. Although the full journey to the lodge can usually be done in a single day, I opted to arrive a day early and overnight with our friends at Belize River Lodge, just a 5-minute drive from the airport. Arriving early adds a cushion for flight delays or lost luggage and is especially smart for a trip to Turneffe, since transfers to and from the atoll only happen on Saturdays. You don’t want to miss the boat.

After a delightful stay at BRL, their staff drove me to the Belize City Marina, where I met our incoming group as they arrived by van from the airport. It’s worth noting that Turneffe Flats Lodge does a great job with their airport transfers, ensuring you’re in good hands from the moment you land to the time you depart.

Once the full group had arrived at the marina, we boarded the transfer boat, Ms. Ellie, a 48-foot vessel that makes the 35-mile journey to Turneffe Atoll in about 90 minutes. We had fairly high winds and large rollers on our transfer day, but the boat was large and stable enough to handle the conditions safely. The waves even added a little extra excitement for our already eager anglers.

Upon arrival at Turneffe Flats Lodge, we were greeted at the dock by Angel, the lodge manager and former guide. He gave the group a quick overview of the layout and directed us to our rooms, where our luggage was already waiting and the A/C was on. After a quick shower, it was time to socialize in the dining hall and meet the other guests staying for the week. Turneffe Flats also offers diving and snorkeling packages, so about half the guests were divers and the other half were anglers. We shot the breeze over cold cocktails and appetizers, followed by a delicious welcome meal. After a long travel day, everyone was in bed early, ready to meet the next morning for our fishing orientation and day one on the flats.

The Fishing

There’s something for everyone on Turneffe Atoll, which makes it an ideal destination for saltwater anglers of any ability level. The newer anglers in our group had a blast targeting Bonefish, Barracuda, Snapper, and smaller Tarpon, while the more experienced anglers focused on Permit, Triggerfish, and large migratory Tarpon. There’s also an extensive lagoon system within the atoll that holds Snook and baby Tarpon, so the fishing options feel nearly limitless.

Day 1: Knocking Off the Rust

Unlike lodges that use a guide rotation, Turneffe Flats pairs you with the same guide for the duration of your stay. I really enjoy this system because it allows you to build a rapport with your guide throughout the week. They get to know your preferences, strengths, and areas for improvement. My guide for the week was KP, a.k.a. King Permit — a nickname that perfectly matched my goal of hunting Permit. KP has been guiding for over 30 years, the last 20 of them at Turneffe. To say he knows the fishery well would be an understatement.

My boat partner for the week was Dirk, a longtime buddy who I worked with at Willowfly Anglers for many years. Dirk and I were on the same page about our goals for the trip: Permit would be the primary focus, but we were open to chasing other species when opportunities came up. We wanted a mix of wading and poling, and we relayed all of this to the guide on our first morning. This is something I recommend to all of our anglers — communicate early and often with both your guide and your boat partner. It sets expectations and ensures the trip aligns with your vision.

Our first day was spent mostly wading, catching Bonefish on shallow coral flats in knee-deep water. It was the perfect way to knock off the rust and get accustomed to KP’s guiding style, which is relaxed but laser-focused on the goals at hand. Throughout the day, KP kept scanning the deeper edges of the flat for Permit. Although we only saw a couple of Permit out of casting range, we had plenty of shots at Triggerfish, and I eventually landed a beautiful one on a white EP Spawning Shrimp. The day was a success, and we capped it off with cold drinks and a delicious conch salad with the group that evening. Everyone had a strong start to the week, with plenty of Bonefish landed and one of our boats bringing three Permit to hand. Spirits were high, and we were all excited to see what the rest of the week would bring.

Days 2-3: The Weather Days

Monday and Tuesday brought a challenging storm front, but we didn’t let that deter us from our plan to search for Permit. KP showed off his deep knowledge of the atoll by finding protected areas where we were likely to see tailing fish and rolling Tarpon. Although Permit were scarce due to the sudden change in weather, we did get a few shots at giant rolling Tarpon — an incredible sight this early in their migration. Typically, the 100+ pound migratory beasts begin showing up in May and stick around through July. One of our boats leadered a massive Tarpon on day two, and word of the battle spread like wildfire around the lodge that evening.

Other anglers in the group faced similar challenges during the weather days, but everyone still managed to catch fish, including some fun bonus species like Blue Runners, Snapper, Barracuda, and Jacks.

A fun side story from Monday evening: one of our Trident anglers is a die-hard Florida Gators fan, and the lodge staff was able to get the game on for us to watch. While I usually try to unplug from the outside world on fishing trips, it was pretty surreal to catch the NCAA basketball championship game in the middle of nowhere. And even better — the Gators won!

Days 4-5: Hunting For Tails

By Wednesday, the storm had passed, and Dirk and I knew we needed to hunt hard for our final three days. Early that morning, we spotted a small school of tailing Permit while poling a thigh-deep flat. Dirk made a solid shot at the lead fish, but they were spooky, refusing his offering and confidently cruising off. All three of us remarked on the size of the fish we’d just seen — the big ones demand perfection, and sometimes even perfect isn’t good enough.

The rest of Wednesday was a grind. We found a few small schools, but they were extremely edgy — in some cases, spooking before the fly even hit the water. If you’re going to hunt Permit, you have to be mentally prepared for the inevitable skunking.

On Thursday, KP suggested we’d have better odds stalking a southern coral flat on foot, which would allow for quieter, close-range presentations. After a 40-minute run to the southern tip of the atoll, we spent the day walking a vast flat in search of tails. While we found plenty of Bonefish and the occasional Barracuda, our target species never showed. That’s Permit fishing.

On the walk back to the boat, we shifted gears and targeted Bonefish and Triggers in the skinny water along the break. This turned out to be one of the best sessions of the week. Dirk and I took turns catching healthy Bones and Triggers as we waded slowly back to the skiff. Despite not seeing any Permit that day, it’s a session I’ll never forget. Sometimes plan B can save the day (or even the trip), so it pays to stay open-minded and keep a positive attitude.

Day 6: Buzzer-Beater

On our final morning, Angel met the group at breakfast and let us know we’d need to have lines up by 3 p.m. so the guides could catch the boat back to Belize City. It was a reminder that all good things must come to an end, and Dirk and I knew we had to make something happen before quitting time.

KP greeted us at the skiff with a single sentence that set the tone for the day:

“We gettin’ your Permit today… we not givin’ up.”

We ran for about 10 minutes before KP abruptly cut the motor, eyes locked ahead like he’d seen a ghost. Then he whispered, “Permit, nine o’clock.” I rushed to grab Dirk’s 9-weight and handed him the rod. This was a big school of fish, and I wanted him to take the first shot of the day, fully aware it might be our last shot of the week. Dirk proceeded to put on a clinic. He stripped off 80 feet of line in seconds, made one smooth false cast, and dropped a white Alphlexo Crab right on the dinner plate of the lead fish.

“Striiip. Striiip. Striiip… Set! He’s on!”

Dirk fought his Permit like a seasoned pro. When KP tailed the fish, we all let out a collective “yeeeew” of joy and relief. It was a moment that will be hard to beat for the rest of my angling career.

Now it was my turn. Fortunately, we had struck gold with this flat. Dirk’s school of Permit would be the first of dozens we’d see that day. KP set me up brilliantly for each shot — wind and sun at my back, fish cruising at the right angle for clean presentations. For three straight hours, we witnessed a spectacle of life that spoke volumes about the health of Turneffe Atoll. There are a lot of Permit here, but that doesn’t make them any easier to catch.

As the afternoon wore on, I could feel the clock ticking. Just as I was about to suggest heading back to the lodge to celebrate Dirk’s fish, KP spotted another school.

“Eleven o’clock, 60 feet, go now.”

I made the shot, but lost sight of the fish in the late-afternoon glare. I stripped the fly in with blind faith that it was even close to the school — and then, THUD. I felt the eat, stripped hard, and lifted the rod. Fish on.

The rest was a blur: excitement, disbelief, joy, and exhaustion. When KP tailed the fish, I looked at my watch. It was 2:59. A true buzzer-beater that ended the week on the highest of notes. KP didn’t give up, just like he promised.

The Guides & Lodge Staff

The guides at Turneffe Flats are world-class. From the first morning of helping rig rods and understanding your goals, to poling hard in the wind and setting you up for clean shots, they’re consummate professionals who work tirelessly to help you find success. All of the guides speak English, and many are multilingual, fluent in Belizean Creole and Spanish as well.

Our group especially appreciated the guides’ calm demeanor. That kind of composure is invaluable when you’re faced with a tough cast or full-blown fish fever. I’ve fished with guides who get so amped up when they spot a fish that it makes you even more anxious. The guides at Turneffe have the opposite effect. They help you stay relaxed and confident in your abilities. Several newer anglers in our group also commented on how patient and encouraging the guides were, often offering casting tips and helpful instruction throughout the day. No matter your experience level, you’ll leave Turneffe Flats a better angler than when you arrived.

The entire lodge staff carries the same warm, welcoming energy, led by owners Craig and Karen Hayes, who were on-site during our week. The Hayes’ have poured their hearts into making T-Flats not just a top-tier fishing and diving lodge, but also a leader in conservation in Belize. They played a key role in the federal protection of Bonefish, Tarpon, and Permit in 2009, and were instrumental in the banning of gillnets in 2020. You only need to visit the atoll to see the impact of their efforts — the ecosystem is vibrant and full of life.

Managers Angel and Sergio are also outstanding. They’re present every morning and evening to check in with guests, take lunch orders for the following day, and ensure that everyone is looked after. The kitchen and bar staff are just as memorable. They're friendly, attentive, and efficient. Every meal feels like a relaxed gathering, and many guests found themselves lingering just to chat with the team. Each staff member has their own story about how they found their way to Turneffe, and their pride in working there is unmistakable.

The Lodge & Accommodations

Turneffe Flats Lodge is an impressive operation, especially considering how remote it is. The heart of the facility is the office and dining hall, where guests gather each day for breakfast and dinner. Just outside, you can enjoy views of the home flat from the spacious main deck or take a dip in the pool, which is conveniently located next to the outdoor bar — a great place to unwind in the evening.

Lodging options range from simple cabanas to larger multi-room villas that can accommodate groups of all sizes. Each unit includes a private bath, air conditioning, and hot showers. Although I had a decent Wi-Fi signal in my room, I mostly relied on the faster connection in the dining hall to check emails and stay in touch with family each day.

In addition to comfortable accommodations and first-world amenities, the food at T-Flats is outstanding. We enjoyed a variety of dinner dishes, including blackened snapper, conch salad, pork loin, and chicken carbonara. Special diets can be accommodated with enough advance notice. The bar is well-stocked with liquors and mixers to cover just about any cocktail request, including a few house specials that really hit the spot after a long day on the flats. And of course, Belize’s beer of choice, Belikin, is always ice cold and available both in your lunch cooler and at the bar in the evenings.

One of the best parts of staying at Turneffe is the fishing just steps from your room. If eight hours on the water isn’t enough, you can get up early or wade the home flat in the evening. Schools of Bonefish often feed within sight of the bar, and big Barracuda cruise through from time to time, so it’s worth keeping a rod close by while you’re socializing on the deck.

Overall, the lodge is extremely comfortable and elevates a great fishing trip to another level. It’s absolutely a destination you can feel good about sharing with family or friends — as long as they enjoy fishing, snorkeling, or diving.

Conclusion

I’d been looking forward to hosting this group for quite a while, and it turned out to be an amazing trip for all of us. It felt like the group truly benefitted from the pre-trip planning and calls, which helped everyone arrive prepared and confident for the week.

For me, it’s a real privilege to share experiences like this with anglers from around the world, especially in a place as special as Turneffe. It offers a unique mix of great fishing, comfortable accommodations, and an atmosphere that makes you feel at home. Once you experience the atoll firsthand, you’ll find yourself wanting to come back year after year to reconnect with your Belizean friends and chase these incredible fish.

I hope you’ll consider joining us for a hosted week next year and experience the magic for yourself.

If you’d like to learn more about Turneffe Flats Lodge, give us a call at 888-413-5211 or drop us a line at [email protected].