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Recently, I had the opportunity to make it down to The Palometa Club in Ascension Bay, Mexico for a week of fishing and catching up with our lodge partners in the small fishing village of Punta Allen. This is considered by many to be the epicenter of Permit fishing on the globe, and I was excited to get into the tropics and see what I could entice to eat a fly. The trip was a great adventure filled with many laughs, new friends, and fishing highs and lows that you can expect on any flats trip. Below, I’ll go into detail about the trip, the status of the Ascension Bay fishery, and my experience at The Palometa Club over the week.

Travel To The Lodge

Getting to Punta Allen, Mexico is very straightforward for US citizens, as it starts with a flight to the popular beach resort destination of Cancun, Mexico (CUN). There are dozens of major US cities with direct flights to Cancun, such as Houston, Dallas, Miami, NYC, Atlanta, Chicago, and many more.

From Portland, Maine, I made the 90-minute drive to Boston Logan International Airport and got through security quickly for my 4-hour direct flight to Cancun. Upon arrival in Cancun, I was delighted to see a short line at immigration, which is now done electronically via facial recognition. A quick stamp of my passport and I was on my way to baggage claim and customs. After clearing customs, I exited the airport and met up with the rest of the incoming anglers at the Berryhill restaurant, just outside the airport exit.

Manny, our Palometa Club driver, was waiting for us with a smile as everyone arrived. We loaded into the transfer van and began our 90-minute vehicle transfer to the Ultima Maya boat dock. Pro Tip: Although The Palometa Club has a great selection of Tequila and Mexican beers, if you want any specific alcohol for your week, you'll need to purchase it at the Duty-Free in Cancun. There isn’t always time for a pit stop at a liquor store on the drive to Ultima Maya. If you do have time for a stop, use the restroom while you have the opportunity.

Once at Ultima Maya, we loaded into two pangas for the remaining 90-minute boat transfer to Punta Allen. It’s a beautiful boat ride offering the chance to see some wildlife and acclimate to the heat and humidity of Ascension Bay. I’d recommend having your rain jacket handy in case of a storm and applying sunscreen in the van before hopping on the boat.

Once we arrived in Punta Allen, it was a short 5-minute walk from the boat dock to the Palometa Club, where we were greeted by lodge managers Francois and Dasha. They had ice-cold towels and fresh margaritas waiting for us, which were incredibly refreshing after a long day of travel. Anglers were shown their rooms and everyone freshened up before appetizers and a hearty dinner. After dinner, Francois gave our group a briefing on what to expect for the week, general procedures, and beverage orders for the next day’s ice chest on the pangas. Morale was high and everyone was excited for the week ahead.

The Fishing

The diversity of fishing found in Ascension Bay is truly spectacular, and it’s one of the reasons we love sending anglers of all ability levels to this unique part of the Caribbean. During my week, I had shots at Permit, large migratory Tarpon, Bonefish, Barracuda, Jacks, and Triggerfish. There’s also an extensive mangrove system within the bay where some anglers targeted Snook and smaller Tarpon, although I opted to mostly hunt the flats for Permit, Tarpon, and Bonefish.

Day 1

My first day was spent with guides David and Sammy, an extremely skilled pair who consistently spotted fish that I would’ve never seen without their help. Their ability to locate and set up for shots on Permit was world-class, and I’d put them up there with the very best Florida Keys guides any day. I had more shots at Permit on day 1 than any other during my trip - which was as exciting as it was frustrating, as I was still working out the kinks in my cast and getting my sea legs on the bow of the Panga. Unfortunately, I couldn’t connect with a Permit on day 1, which was no fault of my guides who gave me every opportunity to do so. The good news, however, is that I knew the fishery was healthy and full of life - a reassurance that gave me confidence going into the rest of the week.

Days 2-3

Days 2 and 3 were spent hunting for Permit in the morning, and then focusing on Bonefish and Jacks in the afternoons. Although Permit and Tarpon are the main attractions for many anglers in Ascension Bay, Bonefishing is also extremely productive, both from the boat and wading. I spent about 2 hours on Day 2 catching Bones in large, actively feeding schools. It was great fun and a welcomed bend in the rod after a tough first day. If you enjoy the challenge of chasing Permit but also want the option to catch Bonefish, A-bay can deliver in spades.

On day 3 my guides Julio and Luis asked if I wanted to spend the afternoon hunting for larger Bonefish, to which I happily obliged. We encountered many singles and doubles feeding in knee-deep flats, and we were able to land several beautiful fish in the 3-4 pound range. In addition to the productive fishing, it was amazing to see the plethora of life on these crystal-clear flats. Rays, Barracudas, and Lemon Sharks could be seen regularly throughout the day, reminding me just how much biodiversity exists here.

Days 4-5

Having had my fill of Bonefish, I decided to commit entirely to hunting Permit on days 4 and 5. Unfortunately, partial clouds and wind made spotting fish difficult, but I can’t stress enough how great the guides were at diligently scanning for fish, poling in the wind, and keeping me mentally prepared for a shot that could occur at any moment. I had just a few fleeting shots over these two days, but the fish either ignored my fly or weren't impressed, giving me the middle flipper before disappearing into the turquoise depths. Such is Permit fishing, and I always say you can’t get one if you don’t go looking for them. Like all of my days throughout the week, I learned a lot from the guides and felt I was a better angler at the end of each day. All the anglers at the lodge experienced similar fishing woes on days 4 and 5, and we were all hoping for favorable conditions leading up to our last day.

Day 6

My final day was spent with guides Coreano and Beudy. Upon greeting them in the morning, I told them I would love to focus on Permit or big Tarpon, but that I was game for anything if they had other ideas. They agreed that as long as we had good sunshine for visibility, Permit and Tarpon would be plan-A.

Our morning run took us south across the bay for about 40 minutes, where we began drifting an extensive network of turtle grass flats. I took the bow in search of a Permit or cruising Tarpon (Sabalo in Spanish). It wasn’t long before Coreano began spotting strings of 2-4 Tarpon in the distance, requiring a short run with the motor to get within casting range. We quickly motored out to where we’d seen the fish, but then things went quiet. After a handful of fruitless drifts, I was beginning to wonder if I’d have another shot in the afternoon. We took a break for some ceviche and a cold cerveza, checked our knots, and sharpened our hooks - hopeful that we’d spot another string of migratory fish.

After lunch, Coreano decided to keep the anchor down so that Beudy and I could hop out and wade into casting position if another string came through. No more than 30 minutes later, Coreano shouted, “Sabalo! Sabalo! Get out, amigo!” My heart began racing as I hopped out of the panga and tried my best to keep up with Beudy, wading through belly-deep water as the wind waves pounded us. We slogged about 30 yards from the boat when Beudy pointed them out - 2 big Tarpon 100 feet away, and heading directly toward us. “Start casting!” he instructed. I began false casting in the direction he pointed, unable to see the fish with the wind waves obstructing my view. I dropped the fly at about 60 feet and began stripping long and fast. “Keep stripping, keep stripping!” Beudy shouted. I wasn’t sure if a fish was on my fly at this point, but I trusted my guide and kept the EP Peanut Butter swimming. Then it happened - I saw my fly about 20 feet from my rod tip, and out of nowhere, a gigantic bucket mouth exploded from below, engulfing the fly and sending an eruption of saltwater into the air. “SET SET SET!” My guides yelled. I stripped as hard as I could, and then set again and again to make sure the hook had found purchase. The fish made a spectacular leap, thrashing in the air, and then proceeded to swim full speed toward the horizon, ripping line and backing off of my reel like no other species can. Beudy and I hurried to return to the panga so we could start chasing the fish, but about halfway back I felt a ‘pop’ and the fish was gone. I reeled in and examined my fly to find that the hook had bent, showcasing the formidable strength of a mature Tarpon. Despite not landing the fish, I was on cloud nine, having seen such an amazing creature eat my fly mere yards away. The intensity of the eat so close to me will forever be burned in my memory. I high-fived my guides and thanked them for the opportunity, and we agreed that seeing that eat was worth the price of admission.

Upon returning to the lodge that afternoon, my Tarpon story was outdone by another angler who had landed an outstanding Permit on a home-tied Raghead Crab pattern. Spirits were high as Francois, the lodge manager, hoisted the Permit flag for the persistent angler - a longtime tradition at The Palometa Club. That evening was filled with jolly celebrations and fishing stories - a true high note to end an incredible week in Punta Allen.

Overall, the Permit fishing was tough during my week, with only 3 anglers putting their hands on the black-tailed devil. Tarpon were also tricky, with only a few of us jumping 100+ pound specimens, and none making it boatside. Bonefish, however, were cooperative and broke up the monotony of searching for Permit, and I particularly enjoyed my wading sessions with Julio and Luis. Other anglers had success with smaller resident Tarpon, Jacks, Barracuda, and even Oceanic Triggerfish. Although Snook fishing can be fantastic in Ascension Bay, our week had less favorable winds for targeting them. The winter months can offer better Snook fishing when north winds pull water from the mangroves, and with it, many Snook are drawn into fishable water.

Despite tricky conditions, all the anglers had an amazing week, and everyone caught fish. The group had mixed experience levels in fly fishing, ranging from early intermediates to seasoned anglers. Despite being known as a Permit lodge, the Palometa Club can cater to all ability levels with their attentive, professional guides and a healthy, diverse fishery right in their backyard.

The Guides & Lodge Staff

The guides at The Palometa Club are true professionals, equally adept at boat handling and fish spotting as they are at communication and addressing your expectations. Here, guides are rotated throughout the week, so you’ll be fishing with a new team of two guides each day. The guide duos generally share the duties of poling and front guiding, allowing you to get to know each guide personally, and ensuring that one guide doesn’t get burned out from poling in the hot Mexican sun all day long. If you’ve not fished with a 2-guide team before, it's a real treat. For starters, you’ve got double the eyes on the water helping you spot fish - good news for anglers like me who don’t have superb eyesight. Secondly, the front guide helps manage your fly line, keeping the excess line away from your feet and tangle-free. Lastly, if you spot fish that are better approached on foot, you can quickly hop out with the front guide, and the rear guide can hold the boat steady and continue to spot the fish for you. This is a system that undoubtedly leads to many more fish being spotted and caught.

Every guide during my week was fantastic. They all speak enough English to communicate clearly, and they’re patient teachers who helped me with subtle casting and presentation tips. Never once did I feel that my guides were frustrated or bothered by my screw-ups, which can’t always be said of saltwater guides. Overall, I’d fish with all of them again, and I plan to continue doing so.

The lodge staff consists of Managers Francois and Dasha, and a small team of local cooks and housekeepers. Each staff member is polite, attentive, and helpful. From the moment I arrived at the lodge to my final dropoff at the Cancun airport, I felt comfortable and part of the Palometa family. 

The Lodge & Accommodations

The Palometa Club is a 6-bedroom concrete structure situated beachfront in the small village of Punta Allen. I’ve always preferred smaller lodges for the intimate vibe they create, and Palometa is no exception. Meals are served family-style at a long table inside, where stories of the day can be shared over authentic Mexican cuisine and a glass of red or white wine. The front yard is the perfect place to relax in the evenings and includes a well-stocked self-serve bar, a palapa with an outdoor dining table, a cornhole set, a hammock, and a rigging table with rod racks and gear storage shelves. When you’re ready to turn in for the night, your air-conditioned room features clean, comfortable beds with private en-suite bathrooms. The charming comfort of the lodge is complemented by incredible fish photography and artwork decorating the walls of the common areas and each room. Despite being in a remote Yucatan village, you’ll feel right at home at the Club.

Conclusion

It was a real treat to spend a week at The Palometa Club this June. Between the engaging fishing, the delightful staff, and a brilliant group of fellow anglers, it was difficult to leave. I already look forward to my return trip to Ascension Bay and reuniting with the wonderful people of The Palometa Club. Once you visit this remarkable place, you’ll want to keep coming back time and time again to indulge in a slower pace of life, delicious Mexican food and drinks, and chase the incredible fish that call this bay home.

If you’d like to learn more about the Palometa Club, give us a call at 888-413-5211 or drop us a line at [email protected].